Saturday, March 26, 2011

95 camry idleing up and down repeatedly every second, any thoughts?



Hi , my 4cyl. 95 camry was running perfect and all of the sudden it does not idle right. It normally idles around 1000 rpm, but it now drops down to 600 and back to 1000 rpm every second, at one second intervals and it does this over and over again. I cant for the life of me figure out what is causing this problem. I thought it might be an air leak in the air intake hose, so I removed it and it still does it with it taken off the throttle body. There doesnt seem to be any hesitation at all when I step on the gas or floor it. The only other thing I noticed is my fuel economy seems to be suffering badly, I havent tracked it yet for MPG but I find the needle falling fast. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks alot.


Reply 1 : 95 camry idleing up and down repeatedly every second, any thoughts?



I had a somewhat similar problem



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=375324

Steering Wheel Shaking at High Speed?



Hey guys, When driving around 80 mph I notice my steering wheel starts to vibrate abit and when I step on the brakes it would vibrate even worse.. Could it be that my wheels are unbalanced? Maybe a wheel alignment?? Help guys... Thanks

Reply 1 : Steering Wheel Shaking at High Speed?



If the steering wheel shakes at speed, one or more tires are out of balance or a wheel is bent. If it only shakes when braking or it gets worse when braking you kikely have a warped brake rotor. All of this information is readily availble if you would only read.

Reply 2 : Steering Wheel Shaking at High Speed?



x2 have your rotors checked.

Reply 3 : Steering Wheel Shaking at High Speed?




Quote:








Originally Posted by gdanaher
View Post

All of this information is readily availble if you would only read.





lol

Reply 4 : Steering Wheel Shaking at High Speed?



if your steering vibrates when braking its your rotors

supercharger Q



How many miles is too many for the TRD supercharger. i have two tacomas, a 2005 TRD sport with 138Kmi and the other is a 1210 TRD offroad with 7Kmi. i know 138k is too many but how long can i wait on the new truck?

Reply 1 : supercharger Q



I don't think that's really a valid question. With proper maintenance, neither motor should be too old or too new.

Reply 2 : supercharger Q



+1, very odd question!

Reply 3 : supercharger Q



it's not that odd of a question, i've been asked several times.



to be honest, you could put one on either and i bet it would be fine.



one or the other though, i would put it on the low mileage one.



my dad put his on when it was brand new (98 bodystyle though) and he has 250k or something, maybe more. (i forgot) and it's been fine.



we would put superchargers on new trucks at the dealership and sell them off the showroom floor that way too.

Reply 4 : supercharger Q




Quote:








Originally Posted by worthywads
View Post

+1, very odd question!



+2 odd question.

Wont really matter but I like to think of it this way.



The sooner you put it on the longer you have to enjoy your moneys worth!

Reply 5 : supercharger Q




Quote:








Originally Posted by 6shooter
View Post

it's not that odd of a question, i've been asked several times.



to be honest, you could put one on either and i bet it would be fine.



one or the other though, i would put it on the low mileage one.



my dad put his on when it was brand new (98 bodystyle though) and he has 250k or something, maybe more. (i forgot) and it's been fine.



we would put superchargers on new trucks at the dealership and sell them off the showroom floor that way too.



I agree with 6 shooter. Not an odd question at all given how frequently it is asked with regard to SC installs in general across all makes and models. I also agree that it can be put on either truck, but the new one sounds better to me. Not just because it has lower mileage, but also because you will probably be keeping it for longer.

09 corolla LE keyless entry programming



does anybody know how to program an 09 remote keyless entry to the 09 corolla LE? I have the key with the 4 functions all in one (everything is on the one key)



any help is appreciated as it would save me anywhere from $40 at a local locksmith to $105 at the dealership to program it X(

Reply 1 : 09 corolla LE keyless entry programming



a search on this would show several threads. I do not believe you can do it

Reply 2 : 09 corolla LE keyless entry programming



not 100% sure but don't beleive you can do it yourself....special software and computer harness are needed to get the code from the car itself...

Reply 3 : 09 corolla LE keyless entry programming




Quote:








Originally Posted by superstallion
View Post

not 100% sure but don't beleive you can do it yourself....special software and computer harness are needed to get the code from the car itself...



yea I've been reading the same thing, and from what the locksmiths tell me they need the computer too. at least the locksmith will save me $60 compared to the dealership

Reply 4 : 09 corolla LE keyless entry programming



i went to a local shop today to program my alarm and key and everything, they took out a computer to change my settings and everything so im sure we arent able to unless theres a secret procedure to do.

Reply 5 : 09 corolla LE keyless entry programming



Just wanted to share that the instructions for programing just the keyless entry can be found on the thread below, again this will program just the keyless entry on a key that is already program with the imobilizer system:



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=367010



I didn't see the above thread until I had already programed my keyless remote built into my key but I found similar steps that worked for me on a different website but I'll share them here just in case it might help anyone else.




Quote:







To program the remote part of the key you do the following:

-Open driver door only with no key inserted

-insert key (don't turn) and remove 5 times ending with key out

-close door and open back up 2 times, then insert key and remove it

-close door and open back up 2 times, insert key and close door with key inserted

-turn the key to the "on" position (not start, just on) and then all the way back to off/lock position

-now press and hold BOTH the lock and unlock buttons at the same time on the new remote key for 2 seconds, release and then hold just the lock button for 1 second.

-You should see the locks cycle one time to confirm programming, it will cycle 2 times if it failed

-note this is timesensitive and frustrating, try to do this procedure rather quickly without pausing, you may need to try several times

-turn the key to the off position to close programming mode. If you mess up any step just wait 30 seconds and start from the begining.

This will activate your remote function of the key. Note that this key also has a immobilizer starter system, for the new key to start the car you must have the dealer do this with the sccan tool, there is no procedure you can do on this, it MUST be done with the techstream scan tool.


Source: http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/1wd...a-key-fob.html

Cruise Control Instal



Hey guys



I've got a 96 corolla and it doesn't have cruise control. I've been looking around to but the parts to try and convert it. Well i've found:



- cruise control ecu

- and the actuation motor



Is there anything else i need? I know the control on the steering wheel. How about anything else? And has anyone ever tackled this job?

Reply 1 : Cruise Control Instal



dont forget pedal switches!



-SP

Reply 2 : Cruise Control Instal



there is only one pedal switch and its on the brake pedal. the cruise control actuator (near the pass. side motor mount) has a cable hooked to it and links to the gas pedal. Also you will need the cruise control ecu, but im not sure if it will hook into your existing wiriing harness

Reply 3 : Cruise Control Instal



I've been tackling this job for probably a year now or so haha but seriously its been awhile, I started a thread awhile back but I keep working at it for a few hours and then getting discouraged for a week, so I still haven't completed it. Your harness is NOT prewired for it (assuming its like mine; base Corolla without factory cruise, mines a 95 but I dont think that would effect it too much). So its a matter of removing the fender and dash, and stripping the entire harness out included related components, which is why I've been slow at it not to mention the cold weather is keeping me inside...but nevertheless I'm still determined to try. I picked up an old 93 corolla for $150 and it happened to come with cruise so I can take my time. I would suggest doing the same because it's a big job. I'm running into extra hurtles because i'm taking it from an automatic and putting it in a manual. Keeping all that in mind, i'm not trying to rain on your parade, It's just that its not a plug and play type of job, it'll take a bit of time and determination.



I'll be sure to make a thread if I ever getting it working, or find out that it's impossible. I'm still yet to know, but i've removed about 70% of the harness and im leaning towards "a pain but possible"

Reply 4 : Cruise Control Instal



Really eh. Well i've only looked quick time. But i've seen one car with cruise control. And the place the actuator motor was sitting under the hood. Is the same place i have a taped up wire under my hood so i'm assuming that's the same place. i would hock up the motor that i buy.



That leads me to my next question. Does anyone have any close up pictures of the cruise control hook up under the hood. Or can take any pictures of it?



Thanks

-Leo

Reply 5 : Cruise Control Instal



sure, see the windhield washer fluid reservoir, it's that black box with the cable going to it behind it




Reply 6 : Cruise Control Instal



Wow the one i saw didn't look like that. But i may be confusing it with my girl friend corolla. and it's the 8th gen. Does anyone else have a photo of there curise control. I have a 96 corolla dx. Or are they all going to be the same like that??



Thanks

Reply 7 : Cruise Control Instal



well, the black box is really jus a plastic cover. But yes, the modulator should all look like that. I haven't seen any different. Now the switch near the steering wheel had an old and new style switch. One was on the left side and looked like a turn signal switch stickin out. The newer ones is on the right and is a bit more nice.

Reply 8 : Cruise Control Instal



I think it mattered if it was factory installed or dealer/port installed. Port/Dealer used a toyota specific "universal" kit that was plug and play from ROSTRA. Came with all the connectors that just plugged right between factory harnesses. Only "hard" connection on mine was where you had to splice into ECU lead I presume for VSS. At the time I sold mine there were a couple of the same exact ones on ebay. Mine was mounted in same place but looked like below picture and tapped into vacuum line. Cable ran along firewall.




Friday, March 25, 2011

Wet Floor Pan



My 86 - 4door Corolla Hatchback has a leak somewhere??The passenger side/front carpet and floor pan are wet after driving in the rain??Anyone had the problem and solved it? Thanks. ~ dale

Reply 1 : Wet Floor Pan



that sounds like your heater core is gone.... but i would check and see if your floor pan is rusted

Reply 2 : Wet Floor Pan



Not losing any water so can`t be the heater core,and caulked and undercoated the floor pan and there is very little rust anywhere on this old Corolla,but thanks for the input. ~ dale

T4R newbie questions



Just bought a 04 T4R SR5 V6 4wd w/3rd row

What maintance is needed when you hit 100k?

There is no schedule maintance list in the owners manual.

I see a tag saying antifreeze needs changed at 100k



What is up with the second air filter behind the replacement. Does it need changed and how does it come out?



I have the engine tick on driverside when up to temp. I seen alot of info about this. I check manifold bolts and all are tight. How worried should I be of this?



Can I run with the plastic engine cover off? and does it help with heat soaking of engine?



I sold 3 cars to get into this one. When We bought are HL a year ago I knew the T4R was going to be are next vehicle.

Carpet Removal Guide



Hey guys, I recently got my 4Runner stuck in a giant puddle. I had water seeping in through the doors, when I finally got it pulled out there was about six inches of water inside, on both driver and passenger footwells.



I vacuumed the carpet, but I want to make sure I get all the water out so the floor doesn't rust, and to avoid any gross smells from the river water. So I decided to make a guide out of it in case anyone needs to remove the interior carpet for any reason.



Here are pictures of the truck when it was stuck for your entertainment.







The first thing I did was removed the floor trim pieces where the door meets the carpet, all the way around. Then I unscrewed the thumb screw and removed the kick panel on both driver, and passenger sides.



The next step is to remove the bucket seats, There are four bolts holding each seat in place, two on the front and two on the rear of the seat. You may want to pull the seats in full back position to access the front bolts easier, and vice vera for the back two, Here's a picture with one seat gone, then another with both seats, seatbelts and buckles removed.







There is one bolt holding in the seatbelt and one holding the buckle in place. You will not be able to completely remove the driver's side buckle yet, as there is a wire connected to it, for your "No seatbelt chime".



The next thing I did is begin to remove the center console, which is a little more challenging. You'll see why in a little bit. There are two phillips head screws inside the compartment, and two more connecting the center console plastic to the plastic where your shift boot is (Standard). After you remove the four screws, the plastic will lift up, and you will need to unplug three or four connection plugs before it can be pulled off. After the plactic is pulled off, it will look like this..







That black thing left exposed is for your rear heat, I believe. Start by removing the back panel, there is three clips that you will need to pop off. Beware, they will GO FLYING! and one tiny phillips head screw on the passenger side. When that's off you will see what looks like a mini radiator with two hoses in front.







It has two hoses which run through the floor that will need to be unhooked so you can remove the whole thing. To do this, I went under my truck, and found the hoses, and I used pliers to pull the clamps down off of the hose end.







The next thing I did, was use some small clamps to compress the hoses from the underside of the truck, so that coolant/antifreeze doesn't spray everywhere (and to hopefully avoid getting an airlock). Once you've got them both clamped you will take a flathead screwdriver and run it around the inside diameter of both hoses to help free it up.



Once that's done, you can remove the hoses from the system. I did this by wedging my screw driver around and around, while slightly pulling up on the metal hose, but be careful not to pull too hard, or your clamps might come loose. They may leak a bit, so I used two large bolts (not sure on the size) to plug the hoses from the inside, you may use rags or whatever you can find. The metal hoses are about and inch and a half overlapped on the rubber.







and here's a photo of where the hoses were connected after I got them off, I accidentally crushed one slightly, so be careful.







That's as far as I got today, but I'll keep updating as I go along. Please add any tips or methods you may have used to help others.



TO BE UPDATED..



After you remove the heater core, and all the hoses are plugged you can now start removing the back bench seats. Lucky for us to remove the carpet we only have to take off the seat bottoms (the part which folds up).

To remove it, carefully pry off the plastic covers. Pry them from the top, because the bottom has a lip which needs to be lifted upwards. Otherwise it will break.. BOO!

Below is a photo of the plastic covers, then a close up shot once it's been removed. I believe the bolt is an 8mm for reference.







The rest is pretty self-explanatory, I'll leave the pictures to do most of it.

Here's both seats out, if you look at the full view you can see the plastic lip I mentioned above.





The next thing I did was start pulling up the carpet from the back to the front, it worked well for me but that's up to you however you take it out.







Another shot with the carpet pulled, I've got lots of water under my carpet as you can see.





As GOT BOOST mentioned, make sure you pull the plugs if your pulling the carpet for the same reason I am.





Once you get the carpet pulled up to the mid-section, there are two black brackets which need to be removed, 8mm also I believe.





Here's some more photos just for reference. I never removed the shift boot, because I couldn't be bothered to take it out. I didn't want to destroy it.




Reply 1 : Carpet Removal Guide



Looks good. Make sure you remove the rubber body mount covers on the floor. This will allow for better airflow in the vehicle while it is drying out.

Reply 2 : Carpet Removal Guide



Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to keep my eyes open for that once the carpet and sound deaden-er are removed. This is my first guide so I am happy to have others' input as I may have missed some things.

Reply 3 : Carpet Removal Guide



Completed Guide




Reply 4 : Carpet Removal Guide



Vote for sticky!

Reply 5 : Carpet Removal Guide



Nice work. Makes me regret not taking pictures of my stripped 91 as I went along, could've shown where all the relays and such are underneath the dash.

Reply 6 : Carpet Removal Guide



That would help alot of people :P



Under the dash stuff sucks, I try to avoid it as much as possible. Also I vote sticky too ^.^

Replacing an engine



Hi all, new to this forum, but I hope someone can help.



I need to replace my engine on a 1998 Toyota Avensis 1.8 GLS (7AFE)



I want to replace it with a 2 Ltr Engine (3Sfe)



Will it just slot in or is there any mods??



Thanks



Graham (UK)

Reply 1 : Replacing an engine




Quote:








Originally Posted by madbrit
View Post

Hi all, new to this forum, but I hope someone can help.



I need to replace my engine on a 1998 Toyota Avensis 1.8 GLS (7AFE)



I want to replace it with a 2 Ltr Engine (3Sfe)



Will it just slot in or is there any mods??



Thanks



Graham (UK)



i dunno about the mounting..but..why not replace your engine with 4A-GE??..this engine has more power than 3S-FE (F means the engine is economic version..and G means performance series.)



CMIIW..

Reply 2 : Replacing an engine



On that note, might as well step it up to the 4A-GZE with the supercharger.

1992 Corolla won't start help please! [video inside]



I have run into a problem after swapping in a new fuel pump and new distributor into a corolla. The fuel pump turns on and fuel rail has pressure but it will not stay running for more than a second or two almost sounds like it's 180 degress out of time but the dizzy will only go in one way so I don't think that's it.



Here is a video that will hopefully help diagnose the symptom.


















You Tube







Reply 1 : 1992 Corolla won't start help please! [video inside]



not an expert and i may be wrong but check the cables and make sure they are in the right firing order. i did that once :-D the dizzy can be fine and if 2 cables are crossed it would do something like that. good luck

Reply 2 : 1992 Corolla won't start help please! [video inside]




Quote:








Originally Posted by Deevious
View Post

I have run into a problem after swapping in a new fuel pump and new distributor into a corolla. The fuel pump turns on and fuel rail has pressure but it will not stay running for more than a second or two almost sounds like it's 180 degress out of time but the dizzy will only go in one way so I don't think that's it.



FYI, when you have a dizzy that's 180* from where it should be, the body itself doesn't have to turn 180*. You just need to take it off the motor and turn the shaft 180*.



THAT BEING SAID, from the video, it doesn't appear that is the case. I don't think the engine would run at all if the dizzy was 180* off. Yours ran for a couple seconds smoothly from what I could tell.



Make sure all critical sensors are still connected like MAP, TPS, etc. How do you know there is pressure in the rail? Do you have a gauge? If so leave it connected when you start it and observe it when the engine runs for those couple of seconds. I'd start there. If you do this, please let us know what the results are.

Reply 3 : 1992 Corolla won't start help please! [video inside]



yeah do what he said ^^^^^

Reply 4 : 1992 Corolla won't start help please! [video inside]



I've checked over everything fuses, sensors, etc. everything except buying a pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure is dying off(getting to that soon). The thing is before the fuel pump died it started up every time perfect and the only thing I changed was the fuel pump and distributor which I really didn't have to do since I found out the old one was working fine.



Another question I have is how do you test to see if the ECM/ECU is bad because during the 5 seconds the car is running the check engine light stays on.







EDIT: I also ran a hot wire from the battery to the fuel pump connection in the diagnostic port and confirmed the audible pump and attempted to start and got the same results.

Back pain



Hi Everyone,



I do know that there are multiple posts about back pain on the forums; however, I have read them all, and am still at a loss as to what to do, so I thought I would ask you about my specific situation.



I recently bought a 2006 Corolla CE; it is my first car. Before this, I drove 1999/2000 Corollas and a 1998 Camry (my parents' cars). I commute an hour to work, and have never had any problems in these other cars. I am healthy, quite young, and have never had any issues with back pain. However, the first day I drove my new Corolla to work, I got quite severe back pain (mid-upper), and it hasn't let up since. (I am almost positive it is the car that is causing the pain, based on my previous health, the rapid onset of the pain, and the fact that nothing has changed except for the car.)



I have read articles on seat positioning to relieve back pain, and read all the suggestions on the forum, and have tried most of these things. I have tried almost every combination of seat positions/angles/steering wheel angles. I feel that I'm sitting in a good position - upright, most of my back supported, not hunched forward. Nothing seems to relieve this pain.



I am really frustrated/sad, because buying your first car is supposed to be a really exciting time, and instead it has caused me this painful problem. The reason I went with a Corolla was specifically because I have found them so comfortable in the past. I also don't have a lot of extra money right now, so I'm not sure what my options are. I'm at the point where I almost want to try to sell the Corolla and try a different brand of car, but I can't be sure that any other car would be better, plus I'm not sure that I could afford to do this.



Does anyone have any suggestions of anything I can try? Do you think I should give up the Corolla, or do you think I should stick with it and try to work through the pain? I'd really appreciate any advice.



Thank you!

New CASTROL EDGE TITANIUM OIL



went down the auto aisle in wal-mart and saw these new castrol titanium oil. I am currently running the old Edge and that oil is great. have anyone tried the new edge? any thoughts about it?



http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...n tId=7067053

Reply 1 : New CASTROL EDGE TITANIUM OIL



I know some auto technicians told me it just marketing. The funny thing is when I heard Titanium, I think it's a metal. And metal is the last thing I want in motor oil; including coolant, gasoline, etc.

Reply 2 : New CASTROL EDGE TITANIUM OIL



check the oil datasheets on their website, see what the real lab test differences are. perhaps it's the same thing you have



don't believe in marketing ever, that applies to all fields, learned that many years ago... you have to look through the illusion

Hissing noise in Camry 2004



Hi, I have searched thru the forum and it seems that my problem has never been discussed before. Ok, the noise seems like coming from the area under the instrument panel and near the gas pedal. Its off when I put the key in ACC and on when at ON position. The more I accelerate, the louder it is. The noise seems linked to the gas as even when the engine is off and I hit the gas, the noise varies accordingly. Any idea would be appreciated.

Reply 1 : Hissing noise in Camry 2004



the only system in the car that i can think of, that is on when the engine is off, (key set to ignition position i'm guessing?) is the fuel pump. so perhaps it is related to the fuel system - how, i have no idea.



Jack the car up if appropriate, (use jack stands always) and have someone else work the gas pedal while you try to trace the source of the hissing. Not likely it's anything inside the passenger compartment, so its got to be an engine electrical component(fuel system or possibly even brake system) or maybe even transmission related.

Reply 2 : Hissing noise in Camry 2004



Thanks for the input. This problem happens after I install the window module to roll up the windows automatically. Is it possible that I might shorted something? And for some reason, I dont know if related to the noise or not, my FR speaker dies too.

Reply 3 : Hissing noise in Camry 2004



to follow up with my situation, today I have a chance to pull some fuses out to isolate the problem. The result are fuse 8 and 17 can shut the noise off. You maybe right AlmightyCamry777 . What do you think? Should I replace the fuel pump? Is there anything else in the fuel system could cause this noise?





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Do 2011 Highlanders have driver's seat memory?



Do the 2011 Highlanders have driver's seat memory?



I had a 2009 Highlander hybrid that unfortunately was in an accident and now have an insurance check to find my replacement car (yes totaled). The 2009 did not have driver's seat memory and it always really bugged me. In fact, my wife (which is 5'3") and I (am 6' 3") attempting to swap driving was a painful exercise as I had to spend the next 10 minutes getting the seating position back into the right place.

Reply 1 : Do 2011 Highlanders have driver's seat memory?



I was looking for that too but no such option.

11 rear on a 10



I was wondering if you thought it would be possible to put a 2011 rear bumper of a 2010. Im sure it is, but you would probably have to change the tail lights to the 11 also because those almost definitely wouldnt line up. But other that that... everything should be the same. Maybe even just swapping the ground effects would do it... I havent looked into how many pieces the new rear is

Reply 1 : 11 rear on a 10



even the front bumper would be cool and probably fit perfectly. I like the new bumpers, just hate the grill. Wish i thought of this before got my car fixed

Reply 2 : 11 rear on a 10



Neither one will fit perfectly

Reply 3 : 11 rear on a 10



Even though you change the head lights and tail lights for the bumpers to fit, I don't think the fenders match up to the shape of the new set of lights for each side.



I would personally just try and modify the rear bumper to fit on the 2009-2010 models since you would just 'trim' of it off for the tail light to fit. I would go this route if your really trying to get that look.

Reply 4 : 11 rear on a 10



new tails+new trunk = new bumper = yay!

Fuse 8 in 1986 22R 4x2 Manual



Hi All -- was driving to work yesterday and my alternator light came on, gauges stopped working, and turn signals stopped working. I went and had the alternator tested at the shop and they said I need a new one. Put it in, but the problem didn't go away. So, I started checking fuses -- fuse 8 (15A, driver kick panel) was blown. So, drove back to the store, bought some fuses, and the problem went away. Driving to work this morning, same thing happens -- alternator light, no gauges, no turn signals. Any advice on troubleshooting this electrical problem? Why would I keep blowing this fuse?



Thanks in advance.



Matt

Reply 1 : Fuse 8 in 1986 22R 4x2 Manual



The fuse keeps blowing because something is drawing too much current.

Some of the things on that fuse include the inst panel, power windows, ECT ECM, b/u loghts, PS ECM, light reminder ckt.

Reply 2 : Fuse 8 in 1986 22R 4x2 Manual




Quote:








Originally Posted by fourwd1
View Post

The fuse keeps blowing because something is drawing too much current.



Indeed.



My truck is stripped pretty bare -- no power anything. As best I can tell, the only things I have on that fuse are gauges, turn signals, reverse lights, and discharge indicator. I have not been able to identify which of these is causing it -- e.g., the fuse doesn't consistently blow very time I use the turn signal. Imsuspect a short, but don't have a good idea about how to track it down.

Driveshaft U Joint Documentary (work provided by Domo)



This is not a how-to, just a visual of what really goes on.



hammer, stuff, ratchets, time, elbow grease, time, and a friend







Open



Observe



Quality



Setup



Workspace



Driveshaft rear



30 minutes later



Yuck



Bang her out hard



Lookin' Good



Put her in



Geez



Installed (painted the driveshaft due to randomness)


Reply 1 : Driveshaft U Joint Documentary (work provided by Domo)



Great Photos! Thanks for the writeup.



I might have fleshed out the process a little with more photos showing removal of the old U-joint, that's the hardest part and gets people into the most trouble.



Also, did you add more grease to the new joint as a final step? The factory white grease is just enough to hold the needle bearings in place for assembly, I always add a nice dollop of moly grease into each cup, then ease the cup onto the spider, wiping off the excess that pushes out before disassembling to install the joint.



Interesting photo of the rear of the driveshaft with it installed in the truck, there looks like there is a witness mark on the bottom of the bed where the shaft came up and hit, or is that the spot where the spare tire rubs? I will have to check my truck this weekend for that.

Cheers,

Paul