Back pain

Hi Everyone,



I do know that there are multiple posts about back pain on the forums; however, I have read them all, and am still at a loss as to what to do, so I thought I would ask you about my specific situation.



I recently bought a 2006 Corolla CE; it is my first car. Before this, I drove 1999/2000 Corollas and a 1998 Camry (my parents' cars). I commute an hour to work, and have never had any problems in these other cars. I am healthy, quite young, and have never had any issues with back pain. However, the first day I drove my new Corolla to work, I got quite severe back pain (mid-upper), and it hasn't let up since. (I am almost positive it is the car that is causing the pain, based on my previous health, the rapid onset of the pain, and the fact that nothing has changed except for the car.)



I have read articles on seat positioning to relieve back pain, and read all the suggestions on the forum, and have tried most of these things. I have tried almost every combination of seat positions/angles/steering wheel angles. I feel that I'm sitting in a good position - upright, most of my back supported, not hunched forward. Nothing seems to relieve this pain.



I am really frustrated/sad, because buying your first car is supposed to be a really exciting time, and instead it has caused me this painful problem. The reason I went with a Corolla was specifically because I have found them so comfortable in the past. I also don't have a lot of extra money right now, so I'm not sure what my options are. I'm at the point where I almost want to try to sell the Corolla and try a different brand of car, but I can't be sure that any other car would be better, plus I'm not sure that I could afford to do this.



Does anyone have any suggestions of anything I can try? Do you think I should give up the Corolla, or do you think I should stick with it and try to work through the pain? I'd really appreciate any advice.



Thank you!

New CASTROL EDGE TITANIUM OIL

went down the auto aisle in wal-mart and saw these new castrol titanium oil. I am currently running the old Edge and that oil is great. have anyone tried the new edge? any thoughts about it?



http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...n tId=7067053

Reply 1 : New CASTROL EDGE TITANIUM OIL

I know some auto technicians told me it just marketing. The funny thing is when I heard Titanium, I think it's a metal. And metal is the last thing I want in motor oil; including coolant, gasoline, etc.

Reply 2 : New CASTROL EDGE TITANIUM OIL

check the oil datasheets on their website, see what the real lab test differences are. perhaps it's the same thing you have



don't believe in marketing ever, that applies to all fields, learned that many years ago... you have to look through the illusion

Hissing noise in Camry 2004

Hi, I have searched thru the forum and it seems that my problem has never been discussed before. Ok, the noise seems like coming from the area under the instrument panel and near the gas pedal. Its off when I put the key in ACC and on when at ON position. The more I accelerate, the louder it is. The noise seems linked to the gas as even when the engine is off and I hit the gas, the noise varies accordingly. Any idea would be appreciated.

Reply 1 : Hissing noise in Camry 2004

the only system in the car that i can think of, that is on when the engine is off, (key set to ignition position i'm guessing?) is the fuel pump. so perhaps it is related to the fuel system - how, i have no idea.



Jack the car up if appropriate, (use jack stands always) and have someone else work the gas pedal while you try to trace the source of the hissing. Not likely it's anything inside the passenger compartment, so its got to be an engine electrical component(fuel system or possibly even brake system) or maybe even transmission related.

Reply 2 : Hissing noise in Camry 2004

Thanks for the input. This problem happens after I install the window module to roll up the windows automatically. Is it possible that I might shorted something? And for some reason, I dont know if related to the noise or not, my FR speaker dies too.

Reply 3 : Hissing noise in Camry 2004

to follow up with my situation, today I have a chance to pull some fuses out to isolate the problem. The result are fuse 8 and 17 can shut the noise off. You maybe right AlmightyCamry777 . What do you think? Should I replace the fuel pump? Is there anything else in the fuel system could cause this noise?





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Do 2011 Highlanders have driver's seat memory?

Do the 2011 Highlanders have driver's seat memory?



I had a 2009 Highlander hybrid that unfortunately was in an accident and now have an insurance check to find my replacement car (yes totaled). The 2009 did not have driver's seat memory and it always really bugged me. In fact, my wife (which is 5'3") and I (am 6' 3") attempting to swap driving was a painful exercise as I had to spend the next 10 minutes getting the seating position back into the right place.

Reply 1 : Do 2011 Highlanders have driver's seat memory?

I was looking for that too but no such option.

11 rear on a 10

I was wondering if you thought it would be possible to put a 2011 rear bumper of a 2010. Im sure it is, but you would probably have to change the tail lights to the 11 also because those almost definitely wouldnt line up. But other that that... everything should be the same. Maybe even just swapping the ground effects would do it... I havent looked into how many pieces the new rear is

Reply 1 : 11 rear on a 10

even the front bumper would be cool and probably fit perfectly. I like the new bumpers, just hate the grill. Wish i thought of this before got my car fixed

Reply 2 : 11 rear on a 10

Neither one will fit perfectly

Reply 3 : 11 rear on a 10

Even though you change the head lights and tail lights for the bumpers to fit, I don't think the fenders match up to the shape of the new set of lights for each side.



I would personally just try and modify the rear bumper to fit on the 2009-2010 models since you would just 'trim' of it off for the tail light to fit. I would go this route if your really trying to get that look.

Reply 4 : 11 rear on a 10

new tails+new trunk = new bumper = yay!

Fuse 8 in 1986 22R 4x2 Manual

Hi All -- was driving to work yesterday and my alternator light came on, gauges stopped working, and turn signals stopped working. I went and had the alternator tested at the shop and they said I need a new one. Put it in, but the problem didn't go away. So, I started checking fuses -- fuse 8 (15A, driver kick panel) was blown. So, drove back to the store, bought some fuses, and the problem went away. Driving to work this morning, same thing happens -- alternator light, no gauges, no turn signals. Any advice on troubleshooting this electrical problem? Why would I keep blowing this fuse?



Thanks in advance.



Matt

Reply 1 : Fuse 8 in 1986 22R 4x2 Manual

The fuse keeps blowing because something is drawing too much current.

Some of the things on that fuse include the inst panel, power windows, ECT ECM, b/u loghts, PS ECM, light reminder ckt.

Reply 2 : Fuse 8 in 1986 22R 4x2 Manual

Quote:

Originally Posted by fourwd1 The fuse keeps blowing because something is drawing too much current.

Indeed.



My truck is stripped pretty bare -- no power anything. As best I can tell, the only things I have on that fuse are gauges, turn signals, reverse lights, and discharge indicator. I have not been able to identify which of these is causing it -- e.g., the fuse doesn't consistently blow very time I use the turn signal. Imsuspect a short, but don't have a good idea about how to track it down.

Driveshaft U Joint Documentary (work provided by Domo)

This is not a how-to, just a visual of what really goes on.



hammer, stuff, ratchets, time, elbow grease, time, and a friend







Open



Observe



Quality



Setup



Workspace



Driveshaft rear



30 minutes later



Yuck



Bang her out hard



Lookin' Good



Put her in



Geez



Installed (painted the driveshaft due to randomness)

Reply 1 : Driveshaft U Joint Documentary (work provided by Domo)

Great Photos! Thanks for the writeup.



I might have fleshed out the process a little with more photos showing removal of the old U-joint, that's the hardest part and gets people into the most trouble.



Also, did you add more grease to the new joint as a final step? The factory white grease is just enough to hold the needle bearings in place for assembly, I always add a nice dollop of moly grease into each cup, then ease the cup onto the spider, wiping off the excess that pushes out before disassembling to install the joint.



Interesting photo of the rear of the driveshaft with it installed in the truck, there looks like there is a witness mark on the bottom of the bed where the shaft came up and hit, or is that the spot where the spare tire rubs? I will have to check my truck this weekend for that.

Cheers,

Paul