Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Timing Belt
























































Reply 1 : Timing Belt



Congrats, always a good feeling when you do a major job like this yourself. You know it's done right, not to mention the money you saved.



The harmonic balancer does have threads, but they are behind rubber, so it doesn't seem like they are there. At least all the ones I've dealt with, the threads are there. But no matter you got the pulley off anyway. And yes always remove the negative terminal and save yourself a lot of headache.

Reply 2 : Timing Belt



Congrats boss. Your proof positive that with some tools and a little time and patience you can save money and get a quality end result.



Once you drive it around for a little, make sure you check your coolant level.



Sean

Reply 3 : Timing Belt



Guys thanks for the "good job." Again especially to Doc J for the tutorial; and all the posters. It's very gratifying. 71C now that you mention it I did feel something rubbery in the holes but didn't think anything of it let alone try to get it out.



My next project will be the oil pan gasket and rear engine mount at the lower crossmember, the mount is split in two. I'll start shooting up the engine pipe bolts now, don't want to break them, plus with a compressor and an impact gun they usually come right off....I hope.



Last month I put in a steering rack (Big pain in the butt) and when you're working alone and on the garage floor the "ups and downs" takes it toll on an aging body, but it worked out.



Back in my day we didn't wear gloves or any kind of protective gear so your hands took the full impact of whatever job you were doing and they feel it now. Take whatever precautions necessary to save yourselves from the aches and pains that us oldtimes are feeling now. We're tough; but, not that tough.



Guys thanks again.....Carl

Reply 4 : Timing Belt



71 C, don't worry I won't forget the neg. terminal. When I heard the snap I thought for sure it crapped out the alternator, but once I replaced the fuse everything was fine....I prayed



Remember, "senior moments," or "I lost my presence of mind."



.....Carl

Reply 5 : Timing Belt



I thought the job was pretty easy... though it had been done before on my car so the holes in the pully were easily visible (though I had to use some bolts from my bike to thread in there!).



Next time (if there is one ), mark the belt before you take it off with some white out or similar with match marks on the pullies. Transfer the marks to the new belt, and you can guarantee perfection.



-Charlie

Reply 6 : Timing Belt



Charlie I remember reading about that in the tutorial, I do now realize how important that step is and how it would have made the job that much easier. But, in my feeble mind I didn't think it was a big deal since I was replacing the belt.....I guess the bulb wasn't on.



Since I'm a senior I can fall back on "senior moments," or "I lost my presence of mind."



Charlie thanks for the reminder, you guys are the BEST.......Carl

Reply 7 : Timing Belt



I am replacing the belt, idlers and seals also on my 91 3SFE Camry engine. when I took the covers off the belt was loose, so the engine appears to have jumped timing. How do you line up the marke and can you mark the belt the way that Dr J has in the DIY sticky and still have the timing phase correct. I was thinking of getting the Haynes manual to assure success as this is the first Toyota that I have worked on also. Glad that you were successful! Want to be as good as yourself but nervous as well. Any help or guidance with this procedure would be greatly appreciated.

Reply 8 : Timing Belt



Dehabur, stay nervous/anxious call it what you want, it'll keep you sharp, you'll check and double check everything you touch. Take your time, you'll be Ok.



If you think I wasn't nervous....think again. I had all the parts over a month before I did the job. As I said the last time I worked on a "rubber band" car was had to be back in the 70's on the Pinto. I left Ford in 86....a long time ago.



You said the belt was loose, was the car running or not? If it jumped time while driving you'll have to reset both cam and crank timing before starting the job. Yes, get the Haynes manual, it will explain everything in detail in resetting cam and crank timing. If it was running mark the belt as per Doc J tutorial.



As far as aligning cam timing mark I used a red spray can nozzle, you can see the top of the cam bearing cap once the flat wiring harness for the alternator is lifted out of the way. Line up the sprocket hole and slide the nozzle into it, it should lay on top of the nub on the cap, I found it easier looking down on the cap than using the mirror. If the alignment is off the nozzle won't slide in.



When I took my covers off my belt was loose also (not falling off loose) just somewhat sloppy, which I thought wasn't normal, but the car ran just fine, plenty of power, great gas mileage and all. Actually the belt looked as if it had been changed; it looked new, but not knowing its maintenance history I changed it anyway. And the water pump.



Do you have a good assortment of tools? Doc J listed them. He fabbed some also...I didn't. Aside from the sockets: long, short, 3/8" and 1/2" drives, a set of offset boxes wrenches are needed, you'll only use a few of the sizes. I found my 1/4" drive socket set invaluable, especially with the 12" extension and swivel. It worked great tightening the lower cover bolts while lying on my rug, (in the garage).



I hope this helps, I can offer encouragement more than anything else, because there are guys out there that are better qualified to give advice than myself....so feel free to correct me if I said something that's not so, even at my age (64) I'm still learning from you young fella's.



But there's one thing I can stand on that you can't...."I lost my presence of mind," or "I had a senior moment" HAH!

Dehabur, stay nervous/anxious call it what you want, it'll keep you sharp, you'll check and double check everything you touch. Take your time, you'll be Ok.



If you think I wasn't nervous....think again. I had all the parts over a month before I did the job. As I said the last time I worked on a "rubber band" car was had to be back in the 70's on the Pinto. I left Ford in 86....a long time ago.



You said the belt was loose, was the car running or not? If it jumped time while driving you'll have to reset both cam and crank timing before starting the job. Yes, get the Haynes manual, it will explain everything in detail in resetting cam and crank timing. If it was running mark the belt as per Doc J tutorial.



As far as aligning cam timing mark I used a red spray can nozzle, you can see the top of the cam bearing cap once the flat wiring harness for the alternator is lifted out of the way. Line up the sprocket hole and slide the nozzle into it, it should lay on top of the nub on the cap, I found it easier looking down on the cap than using the mirror. If the alignment is off the nozzle won't slide in.



When I took my covers off my belt was loose also (not falling off loose) just somewhat sloppy, which I thought wasn't normal, but the car ran just fine, plenty of power, great gas mileage and all. Actually the belt looked as if it had been changed; it looked new, but not knowing its maintenance history I changed it anyway. And the water pump.



Do you have a good assortment of tools? Doc J listed them. He fabbed some also...I didn't. Aside from the sockets: long, short, 3/8" and 1/2" drives, a set of offset boxes wrenches are needed, you'll only use a few of the sizes. I found my 1/4" drive socket set invaluable, especially with the 12" extension and swivel. It worked great tightening the lower cover bolts while lying on my rug, (in the garage).



I hope this helps, I can offer encouragement more than anything else, because there are guys out there that are better qualified to give advice than myself....so feel free to correct me if I said something that's not so, even at my age (64) I'm still learning from you young fella's.



But there's one thing I can stand on that you can't...."I lost my presence of mind," or "I had a senior moment"



Good luck Dehabur...I know you'll do well, and take your time.



P.S. Don't forget to disconnect the neg. terminal....LOL.

















Good luck Dehabur...I know you'll do well, and take your time.



P.S. Don't forget to disconnect the neg. terminal....LOL.

Reply 9 : Timing Belt



Guys there's two posts for the price of one.....don't ask me how it happened



.....Carl

Reply 10 : Timing Belt



Nice to know that my instructions are useful.

And there is an always room for improvement

O.T. My door dent removal project is in progress so hopefully I'll post a thread about it soon!!

Reply 11 : Timing Belt



Doctor J, its an outstanding tutorial, and it did help a whole lot. I'm sure those who've used it feel the same way.



After the job I definitely felt good that it worked out. As you can tell from my posts I definitely was in pucker factor. After the first week I began to relax driving the car, you know is it going to break? Now, the difference in the cars performance is so noticable. (I'm a conservative driver and I like keeping as much gas money in my pocket for the longest period of time as possible, the car certainly helps). Under moderate throttle when the tranny shifts it gives a good kick in the butt. I have a renewed love for driving it.



In the past I used Bosch plugs, my mileage was always in the low thirties back and forth to work, pickup the kids from school and around town, all local stuff. I'd put around 300+ miles (14 gal tank) every couple of weeks on 9 gals of gas.



I usually buy all my parts from Advance Auto, once in a while from AutoZone. Kyle from Advance convinced me to try Denso plugs, he gave me the sales pitch that Denso are better in Toyos than Bosch, so I buy them. I filled it up last Friday, I put 167 mi. on the car so far; the gauge hasn't come close to the half-way mark on the gauge yet...maybe they are that good....maybe my gauge is off....we'll see.



My next project is the oil pan and rear motor/tranny mount. All the oil leaks have stopped with the exception of one, from the drip mark on the cardboard its not coming from the front of the engine but more from the inboard side of the oil pan sump. This weekend I'll get it on jacks and take a better look. Hopefully its the pan.



Thanks again Doc.....Carl

Reply 12 : Timing Belt



Dr J thanks for all the great tips and insight. So can you tell me where to start from scratch on setting up the timing phasing if the belt has jumped time? I got under the bottom cover today to discover that the belt was loose because the stationary idler pulley bearing was distroyed. The balls and pieces of the bearing were laying at the bottom. I will also check my other post. Thanks. Toy1990 does a good job of explaining how he did it in this post, actaully a great job! I just wondered if you had anything to add. Looks like I line up the camshaft gear with the circle on housing and hole in gear, not the line on the bearing housing.

Reply 13 : Timing Belt



Oh I forgot to mention that I have the valve/camshaft cover off too so I can see the cam lobe position for TDC alignment. I can tell the valves are closed and the lobes are roughly parallel with the floor or @ 90* or 9 oclock looking at the gear end. Anyone know if that is close to where they should be for TDC?

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